Super Simple Wall Art

If you’ve been enchanted by the serene, sculptural look of textured plaster art on Instagram or TikTok, you’re not alone. Textured wall art made with plaster or drywall mud has become a hot home décor trend. The beauty of this plaster “reveal” method is that it allows you to create an abstract artwork where a painted base layer peeks through the plaster, adding depth and surprise. In this tutorial, you will learn how to paint a canvas or board first then spread joint compound (yes, the kind from the hardware store!) on top and finally scrape back parts of the plaster to reveal hints of color beneath. The result is tactile layered art that’s frame-worthy and truly made by you.

Whether you’re a seasoned crafter or a beginner, this project is approachable and delightfully forgiving. There’s really no right or wrong way to create your masterpiece in fact, the charm comes from embracing imperfection. So roll up your sleeves channel your inner artist (or baker, as we’ll be mixing and spreading like cake frosting!) and let’s explore the plaster reveal technique step by step. By the end, you’ll have a beautiful piece of art and the satisfying experience of having made it with your own two hands.

Supplies You’ll Need 

Before we begin, gather your supplies. You might already have many of these at home. We’ve included a few substitution tips to keep things easy and budget-friendly:

• Canvas or Wood Panel – This will be your surface. A stretched canvas (any size you like) or a sturdy board (like MDF, plywood, or particle board) works well. Make sure it’s strong enough to hold some weight of plaster. Substitution: An old framed canvas from a thrift store is perfect – you can repurpose it for this project. If it has a frame, tape off the frame to keep it clean.

• Joint Compound (Drywall Mud) – The star of the show, this is a premixed plaster-like paste from the hardware store. A small tub is plenty for a few canvases. Substitutes: Spackling paste or wall filler can also be used similarly. (If you only find the powder form of Plaster of Paris, you can use that too, but it sets faster, so be aware.)

  • Paint for Base Coat – Acrylic paint or latex house paint in the color of your choice to coat the canvas/board initially. You can even use spray paint. This is the color that will peek through. Tip: Choose a contrasting color to the plaster for a bolder reveal (for example, a teal or gold base under white plaster), or a similar tone for a subtle effect. You can even brush on a multicolor background or a simple design if you want multiple colors to show through.

• Putty Knife or Palette Knife – Used for spreading the joint compound. A wide putty knife (3–4 inches) is great for covering large areas, and a smaller artist’s palette knife or even an old credit card can help with finer spreading or scraping details.

• Texturing Tools – This is where you get creative! Items like a notched trowel, a comb, a fork, a spoon, a piece of cardboard, or your fingers can all create interesting textures in the plaster. The world is your oyster – feel free to raid your kitchen drawer for texture-making tools. 

• Sandpaper (Optional) – Fine grit (150–220) sandpaper or sanding block, in case you want to smooth or further reveal spots after the plaster dries. This can help refine your texture or expose more paint by gently sanding down high points.

• Sealant (Optional but Recommended) – A clear sealant to protect your finished piece. You can use a matte acrylic spray sealer, clear polycrylic, or even artists’ varnish. This keeps any chalky dust in place and adds a finished look. (If you love the pure matte plaster look, choose a matte or clear non-yellowing sealer.)

• Miscellaneous – Painter’s tape (to mask edges or frames), drop cloth or old sheet (to protect your floor/table from mess), a paintbrush for the base coat, a cup of water and rag for cleanup, and disposable gloves if you prefer not to get your hands messy.

Step-by-Step Instructions 

Let’s get to the fun part! Follow these steps to create your textured plaster art. Remember, this is an organic, forgiving process – you can tweak and play as you go. Don’t worry about perfection; embrace the process.

1. Prep Your Canvas and Base Color: Start with a blank or pre-primed canvas/board. If it’s a thrifted canvas with an old painting on it, no problem  that actually adds character if some texture shows through, but you’ll likely want to cover the old image. Paint the entire surface with your chosen base color and let it dry completely. This painted layer is important for two reasons: it adds a seal so the wet plaster won’t soak in too much, and it provides the color that will show in the end. Use a brush or roller to get an even coat of paint on the canvas (don’t forget the edges if they’ll be visible). If your canvas was already a solid color you love, you can skip this paint step, but make sure it’s a matte finish for best adhesion. Allow the base paint to dry thoroughly (at least an hour or more, until it’s no longer tacky).

2. Spread the Joint Compound “Plaster”: Now for the star medium joint compound. Imagine you’re icing a cake here. Use your putty knife to scoop a good amount of the joint compound and smother it onto your canvas or board, much like butter on bread. Apply it across the whole surface. Aim for a layer about 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick; it doesn’t need to be perfectly even in fact, variation is good. Tip: If you press too hard on canvas, it might sag; you can slide a piece of cardboard or foam board underneath for support while you work. If you find the compound is very thick or hard to spread, you can stir in a tiny bit of water to soften it. Conversely, don’t overly water it down, as very thin layers may not give as much texture. At this stage, you just want to cover the canvas and roughly shape it. Peaks, ridges, and valleys are fine. Edges: You can wrap the plaster around the canvas edges or leave the sides painted  just decide on the look you want. (If using a board, you might also plaster the sides if they’ll be seen.)

3. Play with Texture and Reveal: Here’s where the magic happens. While the joint compound is still wet, use your tools and your imagination to create textures. You might drag a notched trowel or comb through to make wavy lines, swirl a spoon to make gentle curves, tap with a stiff brush for a stucco look, or dab with a crumpled paper for an organic pattern. There’s no wrong way – just do what feels natural and enjoy the experiment. As you texture, decide where you want to reveal the undercoat color. To reveal the paint below, scrape back some of the plaster in those areas. You can use the edge of your palette knife or even a damp cloth to wipe off plaster in spots or along raised sections. For example, you might scrape off a corner to let a bold color show through, or lightly skim the plaster off the tops of some ridges to expose little flashes of the base color. This technique is similar to an old art method called sgraffito, where you scratch off a top layer to unveil color underneath very satisfying! Don’t be afraid to remove plaster; if you take off too much, you can always re-apply a bit of compound and texture again. Tip: If the plaster is sticking to your tool too much when scraping, wait a few minutes for it to set just slightly, or wipe your tool clean and keep going. Work somewhat efficiently because joint compound will start to dry in about 15-30 minutes, but you do have a decent window to play. Take a step back occasionally to see if you like the balance of white (or top layer) and colored patches showing through. Add more texture or reveals until it feels right to you. This step is pure creative joy, so have fun with it. Remember, if you’re not happy with the design, you can always smooth that section over and try again  no pressure!

4. Let It Dry Completely: Once you’re happy with the look of your textured creation, it’s time to let it dry and set. Carefully set your artwork aside in a safe, flat spot. Drying can take a while (depending on thickness) anywhere from several hours to a full day (or two). For a canvas that’s not too thickly plastered, usually overnight is sufficient. You’ll notice the plaster color lighten as it dries. It’s best not to rush this part; avoid touching or moving the piece during this time, as the plaster is fragile until fully hardened. Tip: If you have curious pets or kids, place the artwork somewhere out of reach a drying plaster piece is an irresistible magnet for cat paw prints (ask me how I know!). Patience is key here. You might see some small cracks in the plaster as it dries don’t panic, that’s normal for thicker areas. You can leave them (they often add a rustic charm) or fix them in the next step.

5. Touch Ups and Sealing: Once completely dry, examine your piece. If you see any cracks you don’t like or spots where the plaster feels loose, you can do a simple touch-up: dab a little fresh joint compound into any cracks to fill them, smoothing gently with your finger or knife. Allow those patches to dry again. When everything is set, consider sealing your art. Sealing is optional but recommended to preserve your work. A clear matte spray sealer is easy take your piece to a well-ventilated area and give it a light, even coat (follow the spray can instructions). This will lock in the plaster so it doesn’t flake and will protect the colors. Alternatively, you can brush on a clear acrylic varnish or poly sealer; just use a soft brush and gentle strokes to avoid disturbing the plaster texture. Be aware: adding a sealer might deepen the color of your paint slightly (often it makes the whole piece a tad darker or “wet-looking”, so do a test on an inconspicuous corner if possible. If you prefer the totally flat, chalky look and the piece won’t be handled much, you might skip sealing. Finally, if any bits of plaster got onto the frame or edges where you don’t want them, you can gently sand them off or use a damp cloth to clean those areas now.

6. Frame & Display Your Art: Now for the finishing flourish! If your canvas is already on a wooden stretcher, you can hang it as-is for a modern gallery look, or place it in a floater frame for a polished touch. For a wood panel, you can add hanging hardware on the back or mount it in a regular frame (with the glass removed to accommodate the texture). Choose a frame that complements your piece – sleek and minimal if you want the art to shine, or maybe something ornate for contrast. You can also display your textured art by simply leaning it on a shelf or mantel against the wall, which looks very chic in a collection. The possibilities are endless: hang your creation above a sofa, bed, or in a gallery wall arrangement. Every time you look at it, you’ll appreciate the interplay of color and texture  and the fact that you made it yourself.

Tips & Tricks for Texture, Color & Success 

• Prime for Adhesion: As noted earlier, giving your surface a coat of paint or primer first helps the joint compound adhere and prevents the canvas or wood from sucking out the moisture too quickly. If you skip this, you might find the plaster dries unevenly or flakes off. So don’t skimp on the base prep  your colors will pop more and your texture layer will stick better.

• Think About Color Contrast: The reveal effect works best when there’s some contrast between your base paint and the plaster. Commonly, people leave the plaster white and have a colored base, but you can do the reverse too (for instance, a white painted canvas then tinted joint compound on top, scraping back to white in places). You can even layer multiple colors: try brushing a few swathes of different hues on your canvas first. When you scrape the plaster off those sections, you’ll uncover a surprise rainbow of tones.

• Texture Tools & Techniques: For fine, detailed textures, use smaller tools (like fork tines to etch lines or the tip of a palette knife to draw squiggles). For broad, sweeping textures, use larger tools (a drywall taping knife for big swooshes, or the edge of a piece of cardboard to create wide stripes). You can even use stencils or lace pressed into the wet plaster to imprint patterns, then lift them off. If you’re unsure, take a scrap piece of cardboard and practice a couple of texture techniques first. But honestly, there’s really no going wrong with this project if you don’t like something, just scrape it off or smooth it out and try again while it’s wet. The joint compound is very forgiving until it fully hardens.

• Creating the “Reveal” Effect: There are a few ways to get that undercolor to show. You can fully cover the canvas and then scrape off areas intentionally (for bold patches of color), or you can half-cover areas by smearing the plaster thinner in some sections so a hint of color bleeds through. A fun idea is to let the brushstrokes of your base paint show: if you made a bold X shape in paint on the canvas, try scraping the plaster off along that X after applying your painted gesture will emerge like a secret message. Another method: after the plaster has set for a short while and is cheese-y in consistency, use a damp sponge to gently wipe it off raised spots to reveal color softly. Find what works for the look you envision.

• Avoiding Cracks and Chips: Thick plaster will sometimes crack as it dries (due to shrinkage). To minimize cracking, try not to apply the compound overly thick in one go – building up in a couple of thinner layers with dry time in between can help if you want very textured, raised areas. You can also mix a tablespoon of PVA glue (white school glue) into your joint compound before application to give it more flexibility and adhesion a trick some crafters use. If working on a flexible surface like canvas, keep it laying flat until completely dry; flexing it too early can cause the plaster to break. And always handle a finished piece with care joint compound is hard but can scratch or chip if dropped or banged. That’s why sealing and framing goes a long way in protecting your art.

• Clean Tools = Happy Tools: While not directly about the art, here’s a practical tip clean your tools promptly. Joint compound is water-soluble when wet, so wash off your knives, brushes, and anything you used with warm soapy water before it hardens. It’s much easier than scraping off dried plaster later. Also, wipe up any splatters on your floor or table while they’re wet. Your future self will thank you!

• Personalize It: This project is meant to be a springboard for your creativity. Don’t be afraid to put your own twist on it. Maybe you sprinkle a bit of fine glitter on the wet plaster for a subtle sparkle, or perhaps you mask off a shape (using painter’s tape to create a geometric design that stays paint-only while the rest is plastered). You could even incorporate other materials for example, lay down a few leaves or pressed flowers on the painted canvas, then partially cover them so they peek out from the texture. The key is that it’s made by you, so let your personality shine through.

Finishing & Display Ideas 

Once your textured plaster artwork is complete and dry, think about how you’ll showcase your new creation. Here are a few ideas to get those wheels turning:

• Framing: A simple floater frame in natural wood, white, or black can instantly give your canvas a gallery-quality look. The gap of a floater frame also accommodates the texture nicely without squishing it. If you used a flat board, you can mount it in a deep shadow box or behind a frame with spacers to avoid touching the art. For a rustic vibe, consider a repurposed vintage frame. Tip: Make sure your piece is fully dry and sealed before framing, to avoid any crumbling inside the frame.

• Hanging: Due to its neutral, textural appeal, plaster art looks good almost anywhere. Center it above a couch or bed for an eye-catching focal point. Create a mini gallery wall mixing your plaster art with other artworks or photos. If your piece is small, you might hang it in a trio or grid with others perhaps make a few plaster pieces in different colors to display together. When hanging, use appropriate anchors because even a canvas can get a bit heavier with plaster on it.

• Leaning Display: Not all art has to hang. Try placing your artwork on a shelf, a fireplace mantel, or atop a dresser, leaned against the wall. Surround it with some plants, books, or candles for a styled look. The soft plaster texture pairs well with natural elements like greenery or woven textiles.

• Lighting: Consider the lighting where you display your piece. Raking light (light coming from the side) will emphasize the textures and cast interesting shadows across the plaster relief. A picture light mounted above, or even just a nearby lamp, can enhance the dimensional effect in the evenings.

• Coordination: Since the color and style of your piece is entirely up to you, coordinate it with your room’s palette. If you used a bold undercolor like deep blue or terracotta, maybe tie that in with a couple of throw pillows or an accent piece in the room so the color echoes. If you kept it neutral, enjoy how it adds subtle interest without clashing with any décor. The tactile nature of the art will draw people in.

Wherever you decide to display it, step back and admire what you’ve made. The interplay of shadows on the plaster and the pops of color peeking through will continue to surprise and delight you over time. It’s like a little piece of your creative soul hanging on the wall.

Rheal Talk 

Every art project has a story, and in my studio, I find that the process of creating textured plaster art feels as cozy and fulfilling as baking a batch of cookies. There’s something deeply tactile and meditative about it  the cool smoothness of the joint compound in your hands, the way it spreads like meringue under a palette knife, the whisper of the knife as you scrape off a layer to reveal a glimpse of color beneath. It’s a dance between concealment and revelation. As I work, I’m reminded of frosting a cake; each swipe and swirl is purposeful yet playful, and I catch myself tilting my head as if I’m crafting a delicious dessert.

In the end, the greatest reward is seeing your personality reflected in what you’ve made. That artwork is one-of-a-kind, and it carries your fingerprint (sometimes literally) in every ridge and scrape. When friends ask about it, you’ll get to say, “I made that,” and tell the story of how a bit of joint compound and paint became a meaningful piece of art in your home. Truly made by you, it’s a testament to jumping in, getting your hands dirty, and creating something beautiful and personal. And just like a cherished family recipe, you can tweak it, pass it on, and do it again anytime inspiration strikes. Happy creating, from my studio to yours!